Manaslu Expedition 35 Days

Why Manaslu Expedition

The Manaslu Expedition is one of the most challenging and rewarding mountaineering endeavors in the world. Mount Manaslu, with an elevation of 8,163 meters (26,781 feet), is the eighth-highest mountain on Earth and is located in the Manaslu Conservation Area in the Gorkha District of Nepal. The mountain is part of the Himalayas, and its name, "Manaslu," means "Mountain of the Spirit" in Sanskrit, referring to the spirit of the mountain believed to inhabit it.

Key Aspects of the Manaslu Expedition:

1. Climbing the Mountain:

The Manaslu Expedition is an ideal challenge for experienced mountaineers, particularly those looking to summit an 8000-meter peak without the crowds that often accompany climbs like Everest or Annapurna. The expedition involves navigating technical terrain, extreme altitude, and unpredictable weather conditions, demanding both physical endurance and technical climbing skills.

• Route: The standard route to the summit of Manaslu is on the northeast face, which is considered the safest and most accessible. The route is challenging, with mixed ice, rock, and snow climbing. It passes through Camp I (5,700 m), Camp II (6,400 m), Camp III (7,100 m), and Camp IV (7,400 m) before reaching the summit. The final push is especially difficult, requiring climbers to have strong high-altitude experience.

2. Altitude and Difficulty:

At 8,163 meters, Manaslu is a technical 8000-meter peak. While not as difficult as some other peaks like K2 or Everest, it still presents significant challenges due to its steep terrain, avalanche risk, and high-altitude conditions. Climbers will experience altitude sickness as they ascend, so acclimatization is crucial. The expedition generally requires between 4 to 6 weeks, depending on conditions and the team's acclimatization.

• The Manaslu expedition is considered a step below Everest in terms of difficulty but still requires proper technical skills, such as using ice axes, crampons, and ropes.
• Climbers face extreme conditions such as high winds, freezing temperatures, and the risk of avalanches.

3. Acclimatization and Camps:

Proper acclimatization is key to a successful summit attempt. The expedition will involve multiple rotations through the various camps on the mountain to gradually adjust to the altitude. This allows climbers to increase their chances of reaching the summit without suffering from acute mountain sickness (AMS) or more severe conditions like high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) or high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE).

• Base Camp: The starting point of the expedition is typically at Manaslu Base Camp, located at around 4,800 meters (15,750 feet). It’s from here that climbers prepare for the ascent.
• Camp I to Camp IV: As climbers ascend, they establish higher camps. Between Camp III and Camp IV, the mountain's steep rock and ice conditions become more demanding.

4. Season for Climbing:

The Manaslu expedition is typically done in the autumn (September to November) and spring (March to May) seasons. These are the windows when weather conditions are more favorable, with less snowfall and calmer winds. However, even during these months, weather conditions on Manaslu can be unpredictable, with storms and high winds common at the higher altitudes.

5. Risk and Challenges:

• Avalanches: The threat of avalanches is a significant danger on Manaslu, particularly on the upper sections of the mountain.
• Weather: Manaslu’s weather is unpredictable, with strong winds and snowstorms that can slow progress and make the ascent more dangerous.
• Technical Difficulty: Although not as technically difficult as some of the other 8000-meter peaks, Manaslu still involves sections of mixed climbing on ice, rock, and snow. The upper reaches of the mountain require the use of fixed ropes.
• Altitude: The climb requires great stamina and careful acclimatization to prevent serious altitude sickness.

6. Expedition Logistics:

Most Manaslu expeditions are organized by trekking and climbing agencies in Nepal. These agencies provide the necessary logistics, including permits, transportation, Sherpas, and guides. To climb Manaslu, a special permit is required from the Nepalese government, as the area is within the restricted Manaslu Conservation Area. This permit is more expensive than for non-restricted peaks.

• Sherpas and Guides: Many climbers employ the assistance of Sherpas or high-altitude guides, who are experienced in the terrain and familiar with the mountain's challenges. They also help with carrying gear, fixing ropes, and ensuring climbers' safety during the expedition.
• Support Staff: A full expedition team will include a variety of support staff, including cooks, porters, and camp setup teams.

7. Summiting Manaslu:

Reaching the summit of Manaslu is an extraordinary achievement. However, it's important to note that only experienced high-altitude mountaineers should attempt it due to the technical nature and risks involved. Climbers must be prepared for extreme conditions and understand that reaching the summit doesn't guarantee safety — descent is equally crucial, and most accidents occur on the way down.

• Summit Push: The final ascent is typically done over two days: one day to move up to the highest camp (Camp IV), and then a final push to the summit.
• Descent: A successful ascent requires careful planning for the descent. High-altitude expeditions often see accidents during the descent, when climbers are fatigued and less cautious.

Trip Outline

Day 01: Arughat – Soti Khola (710m., 6 – 7 hrs.)
Day 02: Soti Khola – Machhakhola (900m., 6 – 7 hrs.)
Day 03: Machhakhola – Doban (1070m., 5 – 6 hrs.)
Day 04: Doban – Jagat (1410m., 5 – 6 hrs.)
Day 05: Jagat – Deng (1920m., 6 – 7 hrs.)
Day 06: Deng – Namrung (2630m., 6 – 7 hrs.)
Day 07: Namrung – Samagaon (3530m., 7 – 8 hrs.)
Day 08: Rest at Exploration day in Samagoan with a side trip to Pung-gyen Gompa.
Day 09: Samagoan – Manaslu base camp (4,665m.,6 – 7 hrs.)
Day 10-25: Climbing Period
Day 26: Base camp – Samdo (3860m., 6 – 7 hrs.)
Day 32 Samdo – Larkya Rest House (4480m., 4 – 6 hrs)
Day 28: Larkya Rest House - Larkya la (5160m) - Bimthang (3720m.,) 8 – 9 hrs.
Day 29: Bimthang – Tilije (2300m., 5 – 6 hrs)
Day 30: Tilije – Dharapani – Drive to Besisahar. (6 – 7 hrs)
Day 31: Beshishahar - Kathmandu Drive (6 hrs.)